It is the first question in almost every dermaplaning consultation, and the answer is simple: no. Hair does not grow back thicker, darker or coarser. It cannot.
Why it can't
A blade cuts hair at the surface. It has no contact with the follicle, and the follicle is what determines thickness, colour and growth rate. Nothing about cutting the shaft sends a signal downward.
What does change is the feel. Vellus hair — the fine, soft hair on the face — tapers naturally to a fine point. Cut it, and the regrowing end is blunt rather than tapered. It feels different to a fingertip for a few days. It is the same hair, at the same thickness, with a flat end.
The blade never touches the follicle, and the follicle is the only thing that decides what grows.Privé Aesthetics
What it actually does
- Removes vellus hair, which is why makeup sits differently afterwards.
- Removes the layer of dead surface cells, which is a real exfoliation.
- Lets serums and treatments reach skin instead of sitting on top of it.
- Gives an immediate light-catching quality — the reason it is our most-booked pre-event appointment.
It pairs naturally with DiamondGlow, which is how most people have it here: dermaplane first, then exfoliation, extraction and serum infusion.
Who should skip it
- Anyone with active inflammatory acne or pustules in the area — a blade over active breakouts spreads bacteria.
- Active cold sores anywhere on the face.
- Anyone with a sunburn or an actively irritated barrier.
- Anyone on isotretinoin recently — skin is more fragile than it looks.
Terminal hair — the coarse, dark kind — is a different conversation. Dermaplaning is not the tool for that, and laser hair removal is.
How often
Every four to six weeks suits most people, which is roughly the surface turnover cycle. More often than that is not more benefit, it is just more exfoliation than skin needs.